Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
